DIOR SAYS METAMORPHOSIZE

Kim Jones, the artistic director of Dior Men since 2018, has been making waves in the fashion industry with his innovative approach to menswear. For the Winter 2025-2026 collection at the École Militaire, Jones drew inspiration from Christian Dior’s Ligne H collection from 1954-55, exploring the transformation of menswear.

In a unique move, Jones presented a formal men’s couture collection intertwined with ready-to-wear pieces, particularly at the beginning and end of the show. This blending of couture and ready-to-wear highlights Jones’ ability to bridge the gap between high fashion and everyday wear, creating a collection that is both captivating and practical.

“Everything is really about the structure,” said Mr. Jones

Throughout his tenure at Dior, Jones has been recognized for his talent and contributions to the fashion world. Most recently, he was awarded the Legion of Honor, the highest French civilian honor, in recognition of his work at the LVMH powerhouse brand. Despite ongoing rumors and speculation within the industry, Jones continues to demonstrate his mastery of menswear with each new collection.

Dior Men’s Artistic Director Kim Jones embarked on a poetic exploration of sartorial metamorphosis this season.

“I had been thinking about the relationship between the ballet dancer Margot Fonteyn and Monsieur Dior. The masculine interpretation of this also involved thinking about her most famous dance partner: Rudolf Nureyev. Nureyev is entwined with my personal history because of my uncle, the photographer Colin Jones. Colin had been a ballet dancer, had a friendship with and photographed the star. The collection, or rather collections, are about contrast: the contrasts in the House of Dior in terms of ready-to-wear and haute couture. It’s the difference between onstage and backstage; the life of Nureyev theatrically and in reality. Here it is a meeting of the dancer’s style with that of the Dior archive.” Kim Jones.

Jones artfully dissects the DNA of mid-century sophistication, reimagining it through a contemporary prism where rigid formalism dissolves into fluid experimentation. Structured blazers, once boxy and austere, are recast with liquid drapery and asymmetrical hemlines, while monochrome wool coats cascade into voluminous capes edged with gilded embroidery—a dialogue between disciplined heritage and unbridled innovation.

The theme of transformation and metamorphosis is central to the collection, with various aspects reflecting this concept. The seamless blending of different time periods showcases a fluid approach to fashion, highlighting the notion that style is timeless.

One particularly notable example of metamorphosis within the collection is the repurposing of archival garments, transitioning them from feminine to masculine silhouettes. This innovative approach to reimagining classic pieces demonstrates the collection’s commitment to both honoring tradition and embracing change.

A standout piece from the collection is a coat that transforms into a skirt, further emphasizing the idea of shape-shifting and adaptability in fashion. This versatile garment not only showcases the collection’s creative vision but also offers wearers the opportunity to embrace a fluid and dynamic personal style.

Overall, the collection’s focus on metamorphosis encourages individuals to explore the transformative power of fashion and to embrace change as a means of self-expression.

A recurring theme throughout the collection is the exploration of volume, transitioning from fitted silhouettes to flared designs. This play on proportions is particularly evident in the inclusion of robes and ‘opera’ coats, which feature full shapes that are cinched at the waist with belts. Drawing inspiration from the women’s archive, these pieces showcase a commitment to challenging traditional gender norms in fashion.

The spirit of Casanova permeates the collection, embodying the duality of the “ladies’ man” concept. This influence is seen in the fusion of masculine and feminine elements, blending the extravagance of 18th-century fashion with contemporary designs. The collection combines the opulence of women’s haute couture with the practicality of men’s ready-to-wear, offering a fresh perspective on modern menswear.

The collection places a strong emphasis on the use of luxurious fabrics and finishes, with silks and satins dominating the textiles. Despite their opulence, the silhouettes remain structured and streamlined, highlighting a balance between extravagance and restraint. This interplay of light and shadow is further accentuated through the use of controlled drapery and the incorporation of chiaroscuro elements, adding depth and dimension to the overall aesthetic.

In essence, the collection celebrates the artistry of fashion while exploring the boundaries of form and function. By combining noble materials with innovative design, it achieves a harmonious blend of elegance and audacity that challenges conventional notions of menswear.

Throughout the collection, there is a deliberate play on volume, with silhouettes ranging from fitted to flared. This is particularly evident in the inclusion of robes and ‘opera’ coats, which feature full shapes that are belted and borrowed from the women’s archive. This blurring of gender boundaries speaks to the collection’s progressive and innovative approach to menswear.

The focus on luxurious fabrics and finishes is a key component of the collection, with silks and satins being prominent materials. However, despite the opulence of these textiles, there is a sense of discipline and structure present in the designs, creating a balance between extravagance and restraint.

Casanova’s legendary charm and seductive nature are reflected in the attention to detail and emphasis on luxurious fabrics and finishes. Silks and satins dominate the collection, yet the designs maintain a sense of structure and discipline. The play of light and shadow through controlled drapery and chiaroscuro techniques further highlights the allure and mystique of the Casanova archetype.

The interplay of light and shadow is another defining feature of the collection. Controlled drapery and the use of chiaroscuro techniques add depth and dimension to the garments, resulting in a captivating visual effect. This attention to detail and craftsmanship further elevates the collection and highlights the designer’s dedication to creating pieces that are both aesthetically pleasing and conceptually rich.

The theme of the mask, a symbol of mystery and intrigue, also adds an element of playfulness to the collection. This motif embodies the multifaceted nature of Casanova, a figure who navigated various social circles and environments with finesse and adaptability. Overall, the collection successfully captures the essence of Casanova, offering a captivating and seductive take on menswear.

The influence of the “Pondichéry” look extends beyond the final robe, as its motifs can be found throughout the collection. Notably, these motifs have been incorporated into the jewelry, such as the sterling silver Chatelaine, which not only serves as an accessory but also functions as a practical tool for the modern couturier.

In addition to the “Pondichéry” embroidery, other needlework in the collection reimagines classic menswear patterns like pinstripes and herringbone, transforming them into more lavish and ornate embellishments. One particular design showcases a sprinkling of raindrops, meticulously crafted with varying sizes of clear glass beading and expert hand placement and sewing techniques. Despite their seemingly simple appearance, these intricate details are far from effortless to execute, further highlighting the dedication and craftsmanship behind the collection.

The Christian Dior fashion show has always been a star-studded event, attracting numerous celebrities and fashion icons from various industries. Among the notable attendees were Yoon Ahn, Aron Piper, Pusha T, Kate and Lila Moss, Lewis Hamilton, ByCalitos, Robert Pattinson, Kate Moss, Farida Khelfa, Jay Chou, Younes Bendjima, Haering, Nicholas Hoult, Rita Ora, and Manuel Turizo.

Each celebrity brought their unique style and charisma to the event, making the front row a spectacular display of fashion and glamour. The presence of these influential figures further emphasized the significance of Dior’s collections and the brand’s enduring impact on the fashion world.

As these celebrities gathered to witness the unveiling of Dior’s latest creations, they not only showcased their support for the iconic fashion house but also contributed to the overall atmosphere of excitement and anticipation that is synonymous with Dior’s runway shows.

In a remarkable moment during the Dior Men’s Fall 2025 show, Kim Jones, the Artistic Director of Dior Men, was awarded the prestigious Chevalier de la Légion d’honneur, France’s highest civilian honor. The esteemed award was presented to Jones by none other than Anna Wintour, the global editorial director of Vogue and chief content officer of Condé Nast.

The Chevalier de la Légion d’honneur recognizes individuals who have made significant contributions to cultural excellence. Jones was honored for his outstanding work in the fashion industry and his role in elevating Dior Men’s collections through his innovative and forward-thinking designs.

Kim Jones said, “This prestigious recognition honours the talent, passion, and commitment of the artistic director of Dior men’s lines.”

Wintour commended Jones for his generosity and creative prowess, highlighting the impact he has made on the industry and the success he has brought to Dior. This momentous occasion not only solidified Jones’ status as one of the most influential designers in contemporary menswear but also marked a historical moment for the fashion industry as a whole.

The Chevalier de la Légion d’honneur is indeed France’s highest civilian decoration, and it’s quite rare for non-French individuals to receive this prestigious honor.

It’s truly remarkable that Kim Jones, a British designer, was knighted with this award, which further emphasizes the extraordinary impact he has had on the fashion world. The fact that Anna Wintour, a highly respected figure in the industry, presented the award to Jones speaks volumes about his talent, dedication, and achievements as a designer.

This momentous occasion not only celebrates Jones’ remarkable career but also highlights the global nature of fashion and its ability to transcend borders and nationalities. It’s a testament to the power of creativity and innovation in the world of fashion, and Kim Jones’ well-deserved recognition as a Chevalier de la Légion d’honneur is a true milestone in his illustrious career.